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The village of Saltaire is a renowned UNESCO World Heritage site, and is
well worth visiting as a day out or as part of a weekend break in
Yorkshire.
A "model village" and an attraction in its own right, Saltaire. as well as its two monstrous mills. was built by Sir Titus
Salt to house the 3,000 workers employed there. The village, on the banks of the River Aire, takes its name
from a combination of the river and the village's founder.
Whether he was a caring man or simply a clever capitalist, Sir Titus' aim was to provide
healthier living conditions and a better working environment for his
staff than those unfortunates who lived in the slums and worked in the "dark, Satanic mills" of
Bradford.
Sir Titus moved his business operations from Bradford, where he
owned several mills, and in 1853 built his new mills and created Saltaire. The village had 775 houses on 22 streets, with most of these named for
members of his family, and the village's architects, Messrs. Lockwood and
Mawson.
The
one facility Sir Titus, a staunch tee-totaller, didn't provide for his
workers was a public house, and for many years Saltaire was without a
hostelry. Today, there is a lounge-bar on Victoria Street, humorously
named "Don't Tell Titus", and between the canal and the River Aire,
there's "The Boathouse" bar and restaurant.
The two huge sandstone mills, which totally dominate the town, were
once claimed to be the largest industrial buildings in the world by
floor area. Situated on either side of the Leeds-Liverpool canal,
which runs through the village, it was here in these mills that the
Salt family fortune was made, and lost, manufacturing fabrics from
alpaca wool.
A deeply religious man, Sir Titus' village included the beautiful Saltaire United Reformed Church, the interior of which is pictured. Built in 1859 for the princely
sum of 16,000, judging by the wonderful craftsmanship inside and out,
it was money well spent.
Look at the upper gallery, and note
the position of the chandeliers.
It is alleged that Lady Salt ordered
the gallery built so she and other ladies could sit apart from the workers. Sir Titus, who always sat down below with the workers, duly obliged her ladyship's request
and the gallery was built. However, he got his own back on his wife's
extravagance by positioning the lights in such a way that onlookers in
the gallery were unable to see anything as their view was totally obstructed
by the large chandeliers.
Salt, who died in 1876, was given a civic funeral by the City of Bradford. He is buried in the mausoleum at the rear of Saltaire Church. He must have been a popular boss - after his death, the mill
workers paid for a monument to be erected in his memory.
Saltaire had 45 almshouses for the poor, a town hall,
library, school and various other municipal buildings, which are
centered around Victoria Square.
The square has four gorgeous carved sandstone lions at its corners, but it is an urban myth that the lions were originally destined
for Trafalgar Square but ended up in Saltaire instead.
Legend has it the
lions were extremely accurately carved, right down to the very last detail.
The inclusion of certain 'appendages' was too much for prudish Londoners
of the Victorian era to tolerate, so rather than chiselling off the offending
parts, the stonemasons
had to carve new lions minus their "equipment" for Trafalgar, and the others came to Saltaire!!
Over the river from New Mill is the pleasant Roberts Park area, which is a good
spot for a picnic or watching the cricket, and is also the way to the Shipley Glen Tramway. Roberts Park, originally called Salts Park or Saltaire Park, was also created by Sir Titus Salt as part of his plan to ensure his workers remained healthy. He considered recreation important and this lovely park is still a site where many Saltaire residents go to relax and have fun.
Part of the old Salt's Mill is open to the public, being home to a host
of shopping facilities and also housing a huge collection of works by
Bradford-born artist David Hockney.
Getting there:
Saltaire is accessible by
frequent local trains from Leeds or Skipton on the Airedale line.
By bus, take Keighley & District's
760 service from Leeds calls at Saltaire on the
way to Keighley.
Anyone
travelling from further afield in West Yorkshire who is likely to be
using trains and buses should consider purchasing a "train and bus rover", available from Post Offices and West Yorkshire Metro as a
scratch-card.
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